Brief Summary
This video addresses common skincare myths about ingredient combinations that supposedly "cancel each other out." It clarifies that while some pairings can cause irritation, they don't negate each other's effects. The video covers five specific combinations: retinol and vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide and retinoids, vitamin C and niacinamide, retinoids and chemical exfoliants, and mixing products together. The key takeaway is that most combinations are safe with proper usage and awareness, but mixing products should always be avoided due to potential instability and uneven application.
- Retinol and Vitamin C can be used together, but it's generally recommended to use Vitamin C in the morning and Retinol at night due to potential irritation.
- Benzoyl Peroxide can degrade certain retinoids, but adapalene is stable and can be used with benzoyl peroxide, even in a single product like Epiduo.
- Vitamin C and Niacinamide are safe to use together and do not degrade each other.
- Retinoids and Chemical Exfoliants can be combined, but caution is advised to avoid irritation, especially when starting retinoids.
- Mixing products together is strongly discouraged due to potential instability, uneven distribution of active ingredients, and compromised preservative systems.
Intro
The video addresses the common misconception that certain skincare ingredient combinations cancel each other out, similar to how people cancel Netflix subscriptions or celebrities. The video aims to clarify these myths and provide accurate information about skincare ingredient pairings.
Retinol and Vitamin C
It's generally recommended to apply retinol at night and vitamin C in the morning. Vitamin C acts as an antioxidant, defending against environmental stressors like UV radiation and pollution, while retinol normalizes skin cell turnover, reduces inflammation, and improves collagen production. Although retinol is best used at night due to skin physiology changes during sleep and the historical instability of older retinoid formulations in daylight, using retinol and vitamin C together doesn't necessarily cancel out their effects. However, combining ascorbic acid (the active form of vitamin C) with retinol can cause irritation, dryness, peeling, and sensitivity, especially for those new to retinoids. Some products are formulated with both ingredients and can work effectively. Adapalene, a topical retinoid, can be used during the day without being canceled out by vitamin C. There's no need for complicated layering routines or timers when applying these ingredients.
Benzoyl Peroxide and Topical Retinoid
Benzoyl peroxide might degrade retinol, depending on the formulation of the retinol product. While cosmetic retinols like retinaldehyde require stable formulations by the manufacturer, prescription retinoids like tretinoin may be unstable with benzoyl peroxide, although adapalene is an exception. Adapalene is stable and can be used with benzoyl peroxide, even in a combined topical prescription called Epiduo, which is effective for treating acne. Using a lower percentage (2.5%) micronized benzoyl peroxide can reduce irritation while maintaining effectiveness. Adapalene can be applied at night with benzoyl peroxide in the morning and night, or even during the day, as it doesn't degrade in light.
Vitamin C and Niacinamide
The myth that vitamin C and niacinamide should never be used together is false. These ingredients are safe to use in the same routine. For example, using a vitamin C serum in the morning followed by a sunscreen containing niacinamide is perfectly fine. Niacinamide offers similar benefits to vitamin C, such as antioxidant properties, without the same stability and penetration issues, and is often less irritating.
Retinol and Chemical Exfoliant
Combining retinols (or prescription retinoids) with chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic) or salicylic acid can be irritating. It's advisable to avoid using them together when starting tretinoin. However, experienced users may incorporate chemical exfoliants with tretinoin if tolerated. Tretinoin itself isn't a chemical exfoliant but can reduce the need for one by normalizing skin cell turnover. The increased irritation from using these ingredients together can occur even if applied at different times of the day, as the skin remains sensitive. During the initial weeks of using a topical retinoid, it's best to focus solely on the retinoid before reintroducing chemical exfoliants. Retinoids help smooth the skin and reduce pore clogging, potentially eliminating the need for additional exfoliation. However, some individuals, especially those with acne or hyperpigmentation, may still benefit from incorporating salicylic acid or glycolic acid. The decision to combine these ingredients is highly individualized.
Mixing Products Together
Mixing skincare products, especially those with active ingredients, is not recommended. Formulations are carefully designed to ensure even distribution and stability of active ingredients. Altering a product by mixing it with another can compromise the preservative system, destabilize the formulation, and lead to uneven distribution, resulting in hot spots of concentrated active ingredients and areas with little to no active ingredient. This can cause poor performance, suboptimal results, and increased irritation. It's especially critical not to mix anything into sunscreen, as it can significantly compromise its ability to provide even and reliable sun protection. Similarly, avoid adding tretinoin to body cream to create a retinoid lotion; instead, use a dedicated retinol body lotion or apply tretinoin directly. The same caution applies to hair care products, such as adding rosemary sprigs and cinnamon sticks to shampoo, which can alter the preservative system and increase the risk of contamination.
Conclusion
While some skincare ingredient pairings can be problematic, they don't always need to be avoided entirely. It's important to be aware of the potential benefits and drawbacks of each combination. The only absolute "never ever" is mixing different products together before applying them to the skin, as this can lead to various issues.
