0:00 In this video, it is the Futaba GYD 560. I'm going to be installing it in my RC drift car, doing a full install setup tutorial. I'm going to be using the Futaba 6PV to set it up with, all to show you how it works and then test it and see just how good is this gyro and is it worth the price of admission. If you are new to the channel, welcome. My name is Troy. This is Roadside RC. You're going to find me bashing or crawling or drifting or racing, plus some product review videos and how-tos. One of my big questions here is with this 560, has Futaba regained some of that magic? The 550, its predecessor, was good, but it's really expensive and really complicated. So, does this have to be that complicated or can we make it
0:45 simpler? Does it bring back some of that old Futaba awesomeness when it comes to their gyros? Let's get started by getting it out of the box and seeing what's in it. Familiar case here. It seems like they kind of put all their gyros in here. A manual, of course, warranty information, a few zip ties, which is always appreciated. The little classic Futaba tool that comes with basically all their gyros. It has a little screwdriver on it. It allows you to hit some of their buttons. A couple different wires that we're going to need. The actual GYD 560 itself. Kind of kind of plain looking if I'm honest compared to the 550. You know, just black on black here. It's interesting. And not one but two sticky pads like hooking up the gyro to the car
1:32 because I'm using an S.Bus related receiver, I can plug channel the S.Bus channel straight into the RX channel, which is the far right of the gyro. And then I get to also just plug the servo into the first servo channel. It's a SX on the receiver. And then I'm done because I'm using the S.Bus. It looks like so far the setup to this is very similar to the GYD 560. I have a whole separate video on wiring up a GYD 550 and setting it up kind of in the dumb or normal method without S.Bus. And so if you need that, if you're curious about that, let me know down in the comments and I'll send you a link to that video. But at this point, these are all the wires that we need and I'm just going to
2:17 use the supplied double-sided tape and mount this straight down here to the center of the chassis. Contrary to some of what you will hear on the internet, forward, back, height up and down does not matter to how your gyro operates. There's people, smart people online who have done very nice tests to figure out that is true. Uh what does matter is you don't want to mount it to something like the servo because it has vibrations. You don't want to mount it near the motor or the gearbox or the same thing. You don't want the vibrations. Down here on the bottom of the chassis with the provided kind of squishy foam double-sided tape that they've provided will do just great. With the controller on, I'm going to go ahead and turn the car on. We're going to make sure that everything initializes. Uh the gyro here had
3:06 flashed and then turned green. So, that means it's seeing a signal and it initialized. I heard the servo uh jitter just a little bit as well. Now, you'll notice my front steering probably shouldn't look like that, huh? What do you think? Uh the steering horn and linkage is not currently hooked to the servo. I wanted to make sure all this worked first. So, what I'm doing now is I can actually hear I can hear the servo moving. I can stick my finger down there and I can actually feel the servo wiggling back and forth, making sure that that is working. I'm going to make sure that all my trims and everything are set to zero on the controller and then I'm going to go ahead and attach the servo horn with the wheels in the straight position. That's
3:52 going to give us that nice baseline. I can't get my servo horn to go on exactly straight, so I'm going to come in here to the sub trim on channel one and we're going to try to crank it back over. We're going to then come down here to the accessory menu and we're going to go to the gyro link and we're going to tell it to run via the S.Bus. And then it actually recognizes up here. You'll actually see it says GYD 560. So, at that point it actually recognizes it. One thing you'll notice is the gyro still not working. So, what we have to do is go into the mixing menu, gyro mixing, and we actually have to turn it on, assign it to channel three as a gain type. It is in normal mode at 80 right now.
4:38 And now the gyro is working and it's working in the correct direction. So, if I move this this direction, the front of the wheels should kind of steer that direction and they do. So, we don't have to worry about that. Our normal versus AVCS modes, if we want, we can change the gyro gain or we can set it up to change the gyro gain based on this switch up here. Going back under the gyro link, one thing we still need to fix is my steering angle. We need to set our steering end points, but as of right now, I'm not getting anywhere near uh the edge of the steering. So, under that gyro mode, I was able to set the limits A and B and now, look at us. We have full steering both directions. Uh neutral offset, I
5:24 didn't need to change. Reverse, I did not need to change because, like I said, it's working in the correct direction. Mode setting, you can go to SR or UR if you're running those kind of servos, but I'm not running. I'm running that EcoPower, so we will put that back into normal and we're ready to go. This is uh this is all we need to do to get this thing up and running, I believe, for a first test drive. So, as I drive around here, you know, this gyro is feeling really good. I am in normal mode, not the AVCS mode,
6:10 running about 70% gyro gain. And man, the car is super planted, super predictable, but more importantly also, but also importantly, not more importantly, but also importantly, very possible, very drivable. I can easily guide it into whatever corner I want to. I can control how big of an angle we're drifting at. I can even get it tight. We can bring it out wide. The control is really nice. It's very intuitive. You don't even really need to think about it. It's like it's doing this. It's doing what I want it to do before I
6:56 know what I want to do. So, what's most interesting to me here, I think, after many, many laps, many, many adjusting the different settings here on the radio, is for me, with since I don't have a fancy Futaba servo that takes advantage of the UR mode and I don't have an even fancier controller than the 6PV, which is plenty fancy for me, but because I don't have like a new 10PX, I think the GYD 560 is just a 550.
7:41 Like at the end of the day, I think it's just the same thing as the 550 for me. I've even come down to a lot of the same parameters in here. So, my response mode, I don't know if you can see this here. Do do do So, my response mode in the basic setup is zero. The limits on each side, that's just my steering end points and they're different because I had to offset the center for this chassis. Neutral offset, everything else is normal or standard. If I go into the other gyro data over here, in [snorts] the normal mode, I run 20 damper, 24 damper point, steering control gain 25, tail slide speed 160 and I might take that back down just a little bit. I had it at like 120. I may take it on back down just a little bit more, but those are all basically the
8:27 same settings that I had for my GYD 550. So, if you are looking at getting this gyro, then those settings hopefully are a good starting spot for you. So, final thoughts on this though is 165, 164.99 price in 2026 with all the other gyros that are out there on the market now is where I'm starting to struggle. Having a good gyro in your RC drift car is number one priority. Period. End of story. It's more important than what servo you're running. It's staggeringly more important than what ESC and motor you are running. So, paying good money to get a really good gyro is worth it. It's worth it. It's worth it.
9:13 But this is like the most expensive gyro that's out there. I am starting to come of the opinion though that what Futaba has done is fancied themselves out of the market. Here's what I mean by that. They've continued to add more and more technology and more connectivity to the controller. That's really cool. And if you were at the pinnacle, if you're the top 1% drivers in the world or your country or whatever, maybe it's completely justifiable to you to spend the 164 and you're going to spend the hours required to get the absolute peak pinnacle out of this gyro. And let me be clear, you don't need to. I I I I just set this up quite rapidly and the gyro works great, but to get the most, most out of it, there's a lot more work that
9:58 can be done in tuning and fine-tuning to your to your needs. And that's great that Futaba is pushing the envelope. But they're getting fancier, but where they're fancying themselves out of the market is all that costs money. And now this gyro at $165 is just way out there. Way out there compared to its competition. I mean, the RevD gyro, uh the RevoX, 138 as I look at it right now, and that honestly I think is silly. I think that should not be anywhere near that expensive. They just have some clout right now and some people driving with their gyros, and so I think I think they're overpriced for what that is, but it's a good gyro, and it's almost $30 cheaper than this one, and dramatically simpler. And then, as much as I hate to admit it, I've even put the Yokomo
10:43 uh DP302 V4 in a car recently and enjoyed the heck out of it. So, with better controllers and as the servos have gotten better, they've kind of made this old DP302 V4 like more and more relevant again, and it's $75 $76. Oh my gosh. Like that's half. That's less than half the price of this Futaba. And if you're just looking to have fun, you slap that $75 gyro in and you just go have fun. And you don't have to worry about all of this programming and all this and hours and tuning and all this kind of stuff. You just [snorts] go get that one. And you probably hang with almost everybody. Are you the top one tippy tippy top 1% performance? Probably not. Don't think so.
11:30 But you have almost have like $90 in your pocket. And last time I checked, having 90 extra dollars in my pocket was quite nice. Quite nice. And so, uh I think that's I think that's really where I come at it for this. If you want the best of the best, and if you want to run the full Futaba ecosystem, controller, gyro, and servo, then getting this one's a no-brainer. And I do believe it has the potential for the most performance. But if you're buying one, am I immediately suggesting this gyro? I don't I don't think that's going to be how it is. So, anyway, if you are curious about buying this one or the RevD or the Yokomo, I will have a link to all of them down in the video description so that you can go check those out and maybe pick one of those up if you're
12:15 looking for a gyro for your drift car. If you are curious about how to set up the RevD gyro or the Yokomo as well, I have a similar video to this one uh installing, setting up, how to program, how to run each one of those. And those will be in my drift tech playlist. They'll be popping up over here to your right. So, I hope this video was useful for you. If you have any other questions, leave them down in the comments. If not, I hope to see you in one of my other drift tech playlist uh videos. Thank you for watching, and goodbye.
