0:00 [Music] master class is a bit of a strong word i would by no means call myself a master in anything in this world but i just used it for seo reasons basically this video i've been using the lumex gh5 for three years now for all of my commercial and personal shoots around the world in harsh climates harsh environments for big clients and i thought i would make one video a one-stop shop for you guys to get the most out of your panasonic gh5 rather than having to hop around so you'll see it's divided up into chapters below so feel free to skip to whatever information you want
0:46 or sit back and watch the whole thing everything i've learned about the panasonic gh5 over the last three years leave any questions in the comments below and i'll get back to you and i hope this video is helpful for some of you out there as quickly as possible i'm going to run you guys through my gh5 settings for about 90 of the shoots that i do by no means is this the only way to set up the gh5 but i feel like i've had great success with these settings so i will run you guys through them very quickly start out we want to set this system frequency to 24 hertz or cinema mode then we'll go up to the recorded format i set it at mov and then down and the record quality i do 4k 428 bit long gop at 100 megabytes per second now down to photo style cindy with
1:33 contrast at -1 sharpness at -5 noise reduction at zero saturation at minus one and hue at zero that is my color profile exposure mode always set in manual i always shoot manual exposure and i think that makes a huge difference variable frame rate is set to 60 frames per second and i have the ss or gain operation at angle so when it's at 180 degrees that means my shutter will automatically double the frame rate that i'm shooting in and that's the way i like to keep it i'm going to quickly quickly show you guys here in premiere pro how i export my gh5 footage so let's say i have a clip here that i want to use i shot this in 4k 24 frames a second or 60 frames a second converted down to 24
2:19 and here we go yep nice beautiful clip so this is the source monitor here i select the end point with an i and the out point with an o for out and by selecting just this part i get drag video only because i don't want audio for this so i'm going to drag the video over here and it's if i drag it over this icon it's going to create a new sequence with the exact settings of this video so drag it drop it boom here we go we've got a sequence set up perfectly for the settings that i shot this video in for the sake of time i'm not going to color correct or anything i'm just going to show you guys how i export so again i'm going to press i on my keyboard for in and it's going to set the end point and i'm going to go okay i want to the video to end right here and i'm going to
3:05 press o for the out point so now i have my video um i didn't really put much effort into this obviously file head up to export and media so i already have presets right here for my exports but i'll just run you guys through from scratch how i set that up so the width and the height are good this is 4k and that's because we dragged our sequence in and it matched it so that is all fine we'll come down here frame rate 24 that's good progressive field order aspect ratio square let's go render at maximum depth just to get max quality out of this and then here we're going to unselect this profile and switch it to high scroll down even further and we're going to switch this to vbr
3:53 2 pass to get the max quality and i set mine to 50. it's a little bit overkill for youtube some might say it's underkill again with this video these are my settings i know it's not it's not the way that everyone exports it i'm sure there'll be some comments of people who do it differently and that's fine i'm just showing you guys how i get my result and then up here you can change the name to oh computer's struggling there exported video boom cool so that looks all good we've got a 50 vbr 2 pass right here and then we change the profile to high that's pretty much it and then once you do that if you want to create a preset out of that you just click save preset right here and write whatever you
4:39 want seen as i already have mine i'm just going to leave it and then you are good to go you just press export and your video will be on its way to start out we'll open up the menu and i'm going to show you guys a setting that's very important for me at least and it's the auto review i want to make sure that my auto review is on and i can put it to any time that you want i choose two seconds that means when i take a photo it's gonna stay on my screen there for two seconds and i'll be able to see it and that is very helpful the next setting just under auto review in this eye menu you will find constant preview and you want constant preview on or at least i do because it shows me on my screen
5:25 as i make changes my image will actually get darker when it's off you won't see that change until you take a photo so those are two very important settings to start out for photography and then we will go up here into the photo area and i will show you my settings here so aspect ratio i shoot for three because that uses as much as the sensor as much of the sensor as possible and then picture size i do large 20 because why not it's the biggest size i like to shoot in raw and jpeg just to have the options if you can edit in raw you're better off to do so so i would recommend raw but having jpeg allows me to send the photos from my camera to my phone in the field and just to have the option
6:11 photo style i shoot cindy same as my video stuff cindy minus one on contrast minus five sharpness minus on saturation that's how i do it and that won't affect the raw shots but it will affect the jpegs color space always rgb not adobe but srgb and then metering mode i have it on the top one i found it to be the best for me i dynamic i keep it at the low setting and then i have always long shuttered noise reduction i keep off not a huge fan of in camera noise reduction shading compensation off diffraction compensation off i keep the burst rate at high though i very rarely actually use the burst rate on this camera
6:56 and for the shutter type i like the manual shutter right over the electronic shutter i like to hear the actual camera click when i take a photo but if you're in a if you're somewhere where you want it to be quieter put on the e shutter mode and no shutter delay and bracket off down there i basically use the sandisk extreme 150 megabyte per second class 10 sd cards you can get them on amazon you can get them anywhere and i think they are the best bang for your buck when it comes to the lumix gh5 basically these cards i use the 64 gigabyte version of them um i stop at 64 gigs because i find they get lazy if i use a card that's 128 gigabytes
7:44 i won't offload my footage as much so i use that the 64 gigabyte version you can right now you can get these cards in amazon for 16.99 us which is insanely cheap 150 megabytes per second uh speed is in everything i've ever shot on my gh5 i have never had an issue with these cards i shoot at 4k 60 frames per second uh ninety percent of the time never had an issue with these cards you might get some people that say when they're shooting in 10 bit they have an issue i've shot 10 bit with these as well and have never had an issue so yeah when it comes to the gh5 these are the cards i would recommend link in the description below
8:31 showing you the two main tools i use that are built into the gh5 to make sure that my shots are exposed properly and that is one of the key factors in getting a high quality film from your gh5 which seems obvious but i feel like a lot of people overlook it like nailing your exposure as often as you can is gonna change your films obviously but anyways i'm gonna run you through the two settings on the gh5 that i use the most to make sure my exposure is almost always on point all right i'm gonna quickly show you guys uh how to turn these settings on the two main settings i use to make sure my exposure is good on my gh5 so just press the center button and open up the menu here and then basically scroll down to you
9:18 see this guy this little wrench with the c for custom and then we scroll up to the top because we're dealing with exposure here so we'll click on exposure i have my iso increments set to one-third which basically allows me to climb up my isos if you look in the bottom there by not hundreds but just in thirds instead which gives you a bit more control which is kind of nice so i recommend doing that iso increments set to one third then we'll scroll down here and as i talked about we have the zebra stripes function zebra pattern function down here so we'll click that and you've got basically two different custom zebra settings you can set so if i go to set down here you'll see that zebra one which is what i'm on will show me when things are 100 percent
10:04 over 100 exposed so let me show you an example of that that's this is what i leave it on all the time so 100 boom go back and it's on now and you'll see as i basically open up the f-stop you see these stripes here that's basically telling me that this part of my image is overexposed more than 100 so basically i won't be able to get any detail out of that image which is exactly what zebra stripes are all about so you try and notice where these patches are in your shot and sometimes you will have them and there's no negotiating you know if there's the subjects down here in the bottom sometimes you're gonna have to blow the sky a little bit but you really try to avoid that so once zebra stripes are on that's good and then we also want to turn the histogram on which is right here
10:51 just switch it to on and you'll see it right there and yeah we'll get into detail of what the histogram is actually all about but those are the two main settings that really helped me nail my exposure on the gh5 i'll quickly run you guys through how i would actually shoot a scene using the histogram and the zebra stripes to make sure that my exposure is always in a good zone in manual mode so this isn't a particularly cool scene it's a harmonica case in my office so bear with me on that but you'll get the idea of how i use these two tools so we've got the histogram up here in the left corner and basically what it's showing us is from 0 to 100 so anything that goes past the right side means that it's overexposed and we won't be able to get any detail back from that area and then anything on the left
11:38 side of the histogram means it's too dark and again it's basically absolute black and absolute white on the right side so as we see now we have all the data kind of bunched up in the left side of our histogram and what we want is for the data to try and be evenly spread out across the histogram so watch as i open up the exposure right now it's underexposed it's all too far to the left let's open up the f-stop here and you can see our data is getting spread out nice and evenly so that is almost yeah we can push a little farther a little farther and yeah there you go so you'll see when we push it just a bit too far we get the zebra stripe right there which means that area of the image is over 100 exposed and i will have no
12:24 detail from that area now typically you want to avoid having these zebra stripes right because it means okay that part of the image is overexposed but in reality you will have it sometimes it's just the nature of it like let's say the harmonica case is a person and you're doing an interview and just you have nowhere else to shoot it and the background is bright you might have to basically overexpose the background to make sure that this person in the foreground is exposed properly but that will mean that your image is just not properly exposed so anyways as as you can see this is how i use the two tools so i'll bring it back down to the zebra stripes go away right there and this is a perfectly exposed balanced image right here you can see
13:11 the histogram all the data is in between the right and left side that is good that makes us happy and again if i crank up the f-stop you see okay that's underexposed and keep in mind that there's sometimes stylistic things that you're going for maybe you do want a darker image or sometimes maybe you do want to blow out some of the highlights if you want the right side if the sun's coming in from the right side and you want it to be bright from there it's okay to break these rules um but typically if you're looking for a balanced exposed image this is how i do it hey guys quick video today on my favorite lens to pair with my lumx gh5 i probably use this lens on 80 to 90 percent of the shots that i take on my gh5 if i
13:58 could only take one lens with me on a shoot it would be this one and that is the canon 24 to 70 millimeter 2.8 lens so disclaimer you do need a metabones adapter in order to use this lens uh from micro four thirds to canon but it is well well worth it i'll let the footage speak for itself everything you're looking at was shot with my gh5 in this lens but it's just my go-to and i absolutely love it it is insanely well built durable weather sealed sharp and with my metabones speed booster ultra goes to an f-stop of 2.0 so it's really great for low light i purchased version 2 of this lens and though i've never personally used version one
14:43 everyone online says that version two is slightly sharper so i would recommend trying to get that one it's not necessarily the cheapest lens i thought this for about 1800 canadian dollars a couple years back but the beauty of canon lenses is that they don't depreciate in price very quickly so when you go to resell it it won't have changed that much in price a quick video today on my favorite wide lens to pair with my gh5 noted that you also need a metabones adapter because this lens is for nikon or canon but i picked up this lens three years ago the tokina 11 to 16 millimeter wide angle lens i picked it up for 400 us dollars three years ago and it's still my favorite wide angle to
15:30 pair with the gh5 i use it for all the shots that i need to get in tight spaces and all the stuff you're seeing right here is without a gimbal i find paired with the gh5s in body stabilization this lens because it's so wide just gives such stable shots so overall i just find the lens to be super crisp it's great for small spaces it's good in low light especially if you have the metabones speed booster [Music] after the short film that i shot in tofino canada a lot of you asked how i shoot in low light with my lumex gh5 i shot this entire video between 5 30 and 6 a.m in the morning in the winter so super dark conditions
16:15 and it really pushed the low light capabilities of the gh5 if you're interested in more gh5 videos don't forget to subscribe to my channel anyways here are a few ways that i get the most out of my lumex gh5 in low light i never push the iso above 1250 anymore it just starts to get insanely noisy and kind of gross if i have to choose between having a slightly darker image or cranking the iso on the gh5 above 1250 i would take the darker image for sure and just a reminder that sometimes dark images are okay not everything needs to be exposed perfectly when you're making a video break the rules sometimes if you think it looks good i don't shoot in v log at night ever vlog looks really bad in low light
17:02 check out my gh5 cindy settings video below if you want to see my exact settings for low light fast lenses you can't really skip over this and it is a privilege to have nice lenses but shooting with a lens that has an f-stop of 2.8 or under is honestly very very crucial all of my lenses go down to a 2.0 thanks to my metabones speed booster ultra and that makes a world of difference i know it's not the cheapest thing to get fast lenses but it is a reality of shooting with the gh5 at night you do need a fast lens and then color grading in post don't overdo it sometimes people try to push the exposure in post and it just starts to get really messy and you see digital grain very quickly this whole tofino film was graded with
17:48 my moody lut i honestly think the gh5 can perform super well in low light given that it's a crop sensor sure full frame would be nice but honestly i don't have many complaints hey everyone today i'm gonna quickly show you how i get a moody looking grade on my lumx gh5 footage i shot this all in cindy with sharpness at five you can find my gh5 settings videos in the description below um typically i will just basically throw on my presets i'll go to color and creative boom browse right there beauty lut and apply that and it's pretty much good to go right out of the box you just need to adjust the exposure a bit but today i'm going to undo that and i
18:35 will show you from scratch how i get this kind of moody look as you can see this shot is quite flat already there's not a lot of contrast so i want you to basically make sure you're in your color editing profile in premiere pro so select color up at the top here and open make sure you've gone window and opened up your scopes so lumetri scopes is open and then you have them selected in the left panel here and then once you select your clip you'll get all these readings here and basically you'll see this is a very flat clip and all of the color is basically in the middle here and we want to spread it out from 0 to 255 so i'm going to start in the color wheels and match area and i'm going to take the shadows and drop them all the way down
19:22 try and get them closer to zero and take the highlights and pop them all the way up and try and get them closer to 255. now we'll go to the curve section because you'll still see they're not quite there and i'm going to make a simple s curve in the master curve section here select the white one and i just drop it down closer to zero and pop it up and this is just going to give a lot more contrast on this image which will be great that's exactly what we're looking for so already we've got a lot of contrast which is sweet but we're kind of missing out on getting those blues i want this to be kind of a cold image because it's for uh you know it's for a winter video i
20:09 want the ocean to be kind of moody and all that so in the color wheels and match area this will be pretty simple but i just want to take the shadows and slowly drop them down into the blue section here until i'm happy with what i see and already it's starting to look pretty good maybe that's a bit much for the shadows i might pop them up a bit more and the highlights as well i may drop a bit of a blue in there maybe that's a bit too much let's pop it back up pop this one up a little bit as well and there you go and already you can see this clip is starting to come along
20:54 i would spend a bit more time with the white balance and the exposure but already i'm quite happy with this i just wanted to quickly show you guys how i can get a moody grade in premiere pro again my gh5 lut pack is linked below if you want to just instantly apply any of my looks you can just drag and drop them on your footage and get a pretty good result right away hey everyone today i'm going to quickly run you through how i get this kind of vintage western look on my panasonic gh5 and it's a look that i made for a very specific shoot in chile i wanted to make it look kind of old western feel and that's when i came up with this look it's worth noting that i also have my panasonic gh5 lut pack with over 100 different looks
21:39 so if you don't want to start from scratch you can simply just choose your look from my lut pack drop it on adjust the intensity and then you're good to go but if you want to see kind of behind the scenes on how this specific look was made i'm going to run you guys through that right now so worth noting at first obviously footage needs to be well exposed that's a no brainer if you have blown out areas everything is going to get a lot harder and it's also worth noting in this look i'm going to use a small grain and put it on top so you can find some free grain overlays online or they're also included in my lut pack so here we go we're going to start with the clip and i'm going to open up lumetri scopes
22:25 on the left here so we can see what's going on we're going to want to keep everything within the zero and then the 255 so we see we could bring all of these up a little bit it's just underexposed slightly which is totally okay so we're going to bring these up still keep them below 255 but we're just going to bring them up until they're just kind of touching the roof there perfect and then we're going to go to the curves and throw in a little s curve nothing too crazy just get some good contrast on this shot pull this back a little bit all right looking good so now this is kind of the main part we really want to warm up this shot and give it that
23:10 western look i'm also going to boost the mid tones up a little bit right here just to kind of soften it and then i'm going to go over to the color wheel and i'm going to start to add that warmth so i'm going to slowly drag the mid-tones into a bit of a yellow you definitely don't want to overdo it and it's easy to do that with this look it is a quite a stylized look it won't work for every shoot but i started i made this for this chilly horseback shoot and i loved how it looked and since then i've used it for a few different kind of summer festival shoots and have gotten a really good response on those so pretty happy with it now this is the
23:56 part where i'm going to drop the grain on top to give it that vintage look and if you don't have my lup pack you won't have this specific grain but that's totally okay you can find some online some of them are probably free as well so we're going to drag this medium fine grain over top right there and then we need to go to opacity and let me see i think i might do a soft light so that's looking pretty good so that's with and without the grain just gives it a little bit more texture and we're almost there i mean we've almost got the look i want to probably drop the blacks a little bit more just to give it a bit more contrast not too much maybe just about four or so minus four
24:42 and maybe don't want to over overexpose it but pull up the whites a little bit and the shadows and i think i could add a bit more warmth probably in the mid tones don't want to overdo it but all right there we go that is kind of how i get my vintage look on the gh5 again if you want to just bypass the whole process and get access to 100 different gh5 looks i have my panasonic gh5 lut pack in the description below and then i'll show you guys how i export for instagram i actually have a preset already that i made a while ago an export preset for instagram based off their recommended file sizes so i can just click up here and go to instagram to pass that's my preset
25:28 but i'll run you guys through basically it keeps the same aspect ratio 1080 by 1350 make sure frame rate is the same field order progressive square pixels render at maximum depth click that and then profile high level 5.0 and i set my target bitrate to 30 and my maximum bit rate to 100 for instagram uh you know everyone's a little bit different with that but i like to overshoot a little bit and yeah those are the settings for my instagram uh for instagram when i'm posting to my feed for instagram stories it's slightly different let me know if you want a video on that anyways thanks for watching this is just
26:15 kind of a long rambly tutorial if you guys enjoyed this please let me know below i have a bit more time right now to sit down and do some of these long tutorials where you guys can just join me and kind of watch my process i'm trying to do my best to explain things i'm sure there's things that i glazed over glossed over because i've been doing this for a while now you
