LIVE Fragrance Mixing Demo Formula: Men's Autumn Amber EDP

0:10 hey what's going on everyone and today we're going to do another uh formulation video where i'm gonna kind of go step by step of a new perfume formula that i am working on uh so today's formula that i'm working on is actually a men's fragrance it's more geared for the mature adult man more in the fall and winter time so right now the concept theme is called autumn amber and the main player in this is going to be the amber note which is more of like a red amber kind of like the balsamic oriental red amber which has a lot of benzoin lab denim vanilla and things like that so as always from like my last formulation video i've got all my materials already

0:55 pre-laid out because i've been working on this now for a few days i believe this is now revision 12 or 13. so i'll start going through all my materials and do a quick blend and explain you know step by step why i'm adding these materials what they smell like what they do to the composition and things like that so without further ado let's get blending so we're gonna add our beaker and of course when you add your beaker you're going to tear it out and so my materials go from base to top and we're going to start off with our musks first so the first one i'm going to add in is exaltely total which is pre-diluted down to ten percent

1:41 so i'm going to do two drops of this and why i chose exalted light total uh it's kind of like my workhorse go-to musk it's not too powdery it's not too sweet it's not too dark it's not too clean it just falls right in the middle for me so it's a good all-around musk if i don't really have a preference in what kind of musk i want in the blend so we're going to stack it though with another musk and this is going to be your typical galaxy light and this is also pre-diluted down to 10 percent so we'll do two drops of this now as i'm adding these drops normally i would be checking the grams

2:28 and readjusting my formula here but since my formula is pretty much already done i'm not going to sit here and readjust i'm just going to kind of go through it really quickly so right now though those are the only two musts that i'm putting into this blend and the two must combine uh for the overall composition is only about 2.1 percent of the total perfume concentrate and i chose to keep the must low because in this perfume i noticed in my previous trials that if i add in too much galaxy light the perfume just gets too powdery and then it almost gives it more of like a unisex feminine smell this perfume is definitely i'm going for the fall winter autumn kind of manly scent so i'm choosing to keep the

3:14 musk low in this one the next one we're gonna add in is cedarwood uh cedarwood oil from texas now this one is pre-diluted to 20 percent we're gonna go one two two drops of that so cedarwood now in the overall composition we're looking at about 2.2 percent of the overall concentrate is going to be for cedarwood the next wood is kind of a new one that i've been playing around with and i find that it works real well in this blend it's called karma wood from iff and i have this pre-diluted down to 10 and caramel wood is actually really really strong so we're going to do two drops of caramel wood

4:01 and what i've noticed with this when you smell caramel wood out of the bottle it's a typical woody amber profile and it smells really nice and dry like a dry amber but what i did notice with this is when you start to add it in your blend and stack it with all these other things it takes on a new nuance and it kind of gets like a powdery woody amber so in my previous trials i actually had karma wood up pretty high because i love the scent on its own but i noticed in my previous blends that the more i added the more powdery the the overall composition became so i had to lower this down to the point where you could almost feel and smell it but not necessarily have it overtake the

4:47 perfume so the caramel wood diluted at 10 percent so by adding in two drops i'm about roughly one percent of the total concentrate of this perfume now the next one we're going to add in is satellox and cetelox is uh just another name for umbroxan but it's a different kind of inbroxion for me in my previous other trials let me add in four drops i've got this pre-diluted to ten percent i'm gonna go one two three four in my other previous trials i was using just your basic average run-of-the-mill ambroxin and ambroxan versus satellox to me cytolox is a little bit softer and more

5:32 refined it almost has a it just smells more expensive it just smells more refined and expensive versus the ambroxan just typical in broxan crystals to me smells a little bit more dry and is probably more better suited for summertime scents uh cytolox for me just fit this composition a lot better so i switched over to settle locks for this now set a locks because it is diluted down to ten percent here i added four drops so the overall composition now of satellites in this perfume is 2.5 percent which that's about industry standard fern brocks and like your savage can go as high as seven to eight percent in their concentrate you know you can use satellites or on broxan and traces up to one percent

6:17 two percent is a good average where you could actually start to detect it but it doesn't necessarily take over the whole perfume so the next one we're going to add in is tonka bean now tonka bean for me this one is actually a pre-blended accord from perfumer's apprentice and it's primarily a kumar and forward like tonka bean so this is not real tonka bean this is a complete synthetic rendition of what tonka bean is and i have this full strength not diluted at all we're going to add in two drops and what this tonka bean does for the overall composition it just gives it a nice overall

7:02 warmth to the very base uh because you'll see as i added more materials like it was lacking warmth in my previous trials and it wasn't until i added in some tonka bean is when all of a sudden just this nice robust warmth came in that really was missing and it kind of needed so tonka bean here two drops at full strength now the overall composition of this in tonka bean is 22.8 percent so it's pretty high but what i found is it was this it was a necessity now this next material that we're going to add in is one of my personal favorites it's called amber extreme from iff it's really really strong so i have this down it's pre-diluted down to two percent and

7:48 we're going to add in two drops amber extreme to me is kind of it it reminds me of like an aldehyde it certainly doesn't smell like an aldehyde but it reacts like an aldehyde where you got to keep your dilution really really low and you just keep amber extreme tucked in and trace amounts in your perfume concentrate but it works wonders especially if you're working with an amber perfume it's a very very diffusive very dry amber like smell and it just works so good in this in this blend so amber extreme uh the overall composition of this one is in it's very it's very small it's point two one percent of amber extreme in this composition now here is the main the main key

8:34 ingredient for me this is my red amber accord and this is the it's a mixture of a lot of things it's a pre uh pre-blended accord and if you've seen some of my previous videos i did a video on how to make this a cord and it's primarily based on lab denim benzoin and vanillin but then i added in some peru balsam in styrax and some other things to kind of man it up a bit and it just smells it smells like a good balsamic red amber but with hints of tobacco and leather and it's just awesome so this one's pre-diluted to 50 and i'm going to add in four drops so my red amber accord this is really

9:21 the basis of what this whole entire scent is revolving around this is the key star player and the red amber cord when i added in four drops pre-diluted to 50 now we're at 14 of the overall perfume concentrate so it's a little bit less a little bit less than the tonka bean but when you add tonka with red amber they play together so well because the red amber is such a resinous thick dense uh tobacco kind of uh leathery feel that the it lacks warmth it's it has a specific dryness to it and the tonka bean with the red amber combined together just really solidifies the base of this

10:07 perfume so the last of the base materials we're going to add in is more tonka bean but now it's a tonka bean absolute and this is pre-diluted down to 10 i'm gonna add two drops and if you've seen any of my previous videos i always talk about i like to combine naturals with synthetics so combining the natural tonka bean absolutes with the tonka bean accord that is primarily just a you know pre-mix of just chemicals it's primarily kumar and a bunch of things but when you use the two together you're getting the best of both worlds you're getting the realistic smell of real tonka bean absolute with the help of the synthetic

10:54 counterpart synthetic counterparts of the tonka bean accord and it's just the best of both worlds because you get the real smell with the longevity of the chemical counterparts and together it just it makes it just perfect for me okay so now we're gonna move into some of the the middle notes some of the blenders some of the fillers some of the modifiers and in this particular one you gotta have isoe super i like i can't do a men's fragrance without using isoe super so this one i always keep it neat 100 i never dilute it there's no need to so we're going to do two drops of ice we super

11:40 and that's uh it just solidifies a nice bed for everything to sit in and it just works it's like without isoe super just the whole composition just feels like it's missing something and the iso is super to me is just a nice bed for everything to sit in now we're going to move into our florals uh i chose to do rose in this composition because with an oriental kind of amber fragrance rose goes really well with it but i have two different kinds of rows actually here's two different kinds of rows i've got many different kinds of rows rows of cords here in my stash but i kind of narrowed it down to these two so the basis of this one is based around rose gibco

12:27 which is uh made by jivo down it's their generic kind of go-to rose scent and it works fine if you just don't know what kind of rose you're going for so i have this one pre-diluted down to 25 percent and the rose jib coat we are going to do three drops now because rose gibco is 100 synthetic like always i like to combine real with some synthetic so now i have a robes rose absolute from morocco and this is pre-diluted down to 25 percent so we're going to add in two drops of this and the reason why i went with the

13:14 moroccan rose absolute is it has a specific spiciness to it it's not a clean petal like rose it's a very dirty spicy rose which complements the overall theme of the fragrance really well uh so looking at the two rose materials we'll backtrack to isoe super isoe super in this total concentrate of all the materials combined is roughly 16.5 percent the two rows uh we're looking at let's see three we're looking at about 10 of the overall composition is going to be based on rose now the next one we're going to add in and this is something i've actually added into this perfume just recently to play with and i've i fell in love with

14:00 it and this is going to be a coffee bean absolute it's pre-diluted to 10 but i'm only going to do one drop because it's pretty strong and i don't want this to be a coffee fragrance so if i add in any more than just the one drop at 10 percent it becomes a coffee fragrance that kind of reminds me of if you're familiar with the house of ralph lauren's a polo red extreme or sometimes they do polo red polo red extreme polo they have different polo reds but it's based around coffee and if i use too much coffee the scent profile starts to take on that direction which i didn't want it to go but adding in some coffee does give it a nice warm gourmand kind of solidification in the

14:46 mids if i took out the coffee bean the mids is primarily based on rose which is fine but too much rose in this composition i noticed it gave the overall scent too much freshness and in my previous trials when i was doing this my finished perfume i kept smelling it and i was like why is it smelling so fresh like something about it was just so fresh and i would start to think you know it must be the top notes it must be some of these things i wasn't really thinking that the rose would give it that much freshness but as i went back and started tinkering with all the different uh individual you know ingredients that are going into this i found that too much rose gave it too much of refreshing but once i added in lesser dosage of

15:32 rose and complement it with just a little bit of coffee bean it's it's just kind of everything married together really really well so now we're gonna move on to some of the more fresh spicy notes uh we're gonna do some cardamom and that's this is just your run-of-the-mill cardamom essential oil i have it pre-diluted to 25 and here we're going to do just one drop [Music] and the cardamom essential oil kind of takes a nice fresh spicy take from the mids into the top so if you don't have something to kind of blend the top to the mids there's just that missing gap and i feel like

16:18 the cardamom just fit the bill nicely for that so cardamom in this when it's pre-diluted down to 25 one drop of it i'm now looking at 1.3 percent of cardamom in my complete composition here so now i'm gonna add in a wild card and once i've added this in i never looked back in this fragrance because there's a lot of warmth a lot of spiciness happening so as you get to the the top notes the mid to the mid top and to the top you're going to get to the to the more fresher materials and there's one called ultra which acts like an aldehyde to me and it's a very fresh uplifting

17:04 slightly citrusy kind of take on an aldehyde but it's not really an aldehyde but it is a very ozonic fresh smell i have ultrasour pre-diluted the five percent and i'm just gonna do one drop and this kind of opens up the fragrance so it's not so congested and it's not so thick it's not so cloying it just gives it just a hint of freshness and just kind of opens it up just a little bit so ultrasure when it's pre-diluted to five percent the one drop i am now looking at point three percent of ultrasource in the entire composition now this next one i'm going to tear this out because i'm doing a modification of this formula and that's with nutmeg in my previous trials i've added

17:51 in nutmeg and i think it works really well with this because it gives it a nice gourmand touch and it complements well with not only just the the tonka bean which is kind of gourmand it complements the red amber and also complement complements the coffee absolute but the nutmeg just gives it a nice spiciness and to the very very top notes it's not a spiciness in a sense of like spice bomb by victor and rough but it's a gourmand spicy it's kind of warm pillowy spicy but i've noticed that in my previous trials i've added in too much and it kind of became a dominant note in the overall fragrance which i didn't want i want it to be more of a complementary note so i have it prediluted to 10 my original formula called for two drops

18:37 of this so i'm only going to do one and that is point zero one five grams so i am going to modify this formula now that brings me down the overall nutmeg composition in the overall formula originally was at one percent it there was one percent nutmeg in the whole formula and it was just a little bit too much so doing half of that now i'm at point five percent so once i'm all finished i'm going to smell this and see what this does the next ingredient is actually going to be an aldehyde and now we're going to get into the c12 mna and this aldehyde kind of acts from

19:24 all the way from the base to the top it's a very long lasting aldehyde it's probably the most common used aldehyde in perfumery but you have to pre-dilute it super super low i have this one pre-diluted down to 0.5 percent and i'm only going to do one single drop i had it at one percent for the longest time but in this blend it just one for you know when i had it diluted to one percent it was just taking over so i took it down to 0.5 percent so now my c12 mna one drop at 0.5 percent dilution now i'm in i'm in trace amount territory now i am at .05 percent of c12 mna from the whole composition

20:09 the last thing of the kind of middle to top notes i'm going to add in is i wanted to add in a slight bit of herbalness but not a lot so i originally had in sage and sage did well i had in some rosemary and that did is it did okay too but then i i kind of went to sweet basil which i have it pre-diluted to 10 so i'm going to do just one drop of that and it just gives it a slight herbal freshness but it's dosed pretty low so my basil ten percent diluted and the overall composition with just one drop takes it to point five percent basil in the overall composition and you can smell it believe me point

20:56 five percent doesn't seem like a lot in the entire you know 100 scheme of the entire thing but it's very noticeable it does give it an herbal fresh quality but i keep it low because i don't want the overall composition to smell herbal so now we're going to move into the very very top notes uh in the top notes that i've uh kind of pre-selected in this one definitely definitely gonna go with blood orange i've tried some other oranges i've tried tangerine i've tried sweet orange i've tried bitter orange and something about blood orange just fits this composition well but i don't want to rely on just one citrus in this one so i'm going to kind of marry blood orange with a couple things

21:42 such as like bergamot and some other things so we'll we'll go through all that right now so what we'll start with blood orange blood orange here is not pre-diluted it is it's at 100 full strength usually with my citruses i don't pre-dilute them because they're so volatile and they're so evaporative that you can really never overdose a citrus at least that i found especially blood orange because it's a more faint orange smell so with blood orange at a hundred percent i'm just going to do two drops so now my blood orange concentration level here it's a lot just the two drops at 100 percent now it's at 13 of the overall

22:28 composition is going to be blood orange so it does give it a very orangey smell but blood orange doesn't smell sweets uh to me blood orange is more of a tart kind of orange and it just fits this really well but because i like to mix naturals with some synthetics uh jivodine makes a a pre-diluted orange synthetic called orange power jibco and it's strong it's so strong but it's so good and it's definitely a sweet orange kind of smell but blood orange a natural blood orange evaporation is so evaporative that with in this perfume if i didn't back it with this the top note of blood orange would be evaporated in less than

23:14 20 minutes so with the help of orange jibco pre-diluted to 10 i'm just going to do three drops i'm gonna go one two three it kind of helps drag that orange profile down into the mids so it doesn't seem as if your blood orange evaporates so quickly so blood orange is at 13 roughly 13.3 percent uh three drops of 10 orange jibco is at 1.6 so now the overall orange smell we're looking at roughly 15 of the overall composition is dedicated to an orange kind of scent but now we're going to freshen it up with some bergamot

24:00 type scents i don't want to rely too much just on orange for this i do want to add in a little bit of more bergamot freshness and i had a hard time choosing between different bergamots so i had bergamot essential oil i've got uh bergamot jivco which is jivodan's uh synthetic version and then i there's another one called bergamal which i believe is from simrise or maybe it's it's another company but it's their take on it so but bergamol to me is not a pleasant bergamot scent it almost smells too clean it almost smells too soapy so i have it pre-diluted to 25 because i'm gonna dose it low so with bergamol at 25

24:47 we're just gonna do one drop and it really doesn't change the odor profile of the orange at all when you doubt when you dose it that low but it does give it a clean freshness to it now but not too much but now we're gonna also back it back that with uh bergamot jivco which is another synthetic and this one is not prediluted it's a hundred percent full strength just one drop so i'm using synthetics for the bergamot because i have so much natural blood orange that i don't want to like overdose it with too much natural bergamot now because of the evaporation of naturals just happens way too quickly so if the primary prime primary citrus

25:35 is going to be blood orange which is a natural all my bergamots i'm going to specifically choose to be chemical renditions of it just because i don't want too much naturals in the top because then your top notes just going to be fleeting like that then the very last thing we're going to add in is a chemical called precyclamen b and this is used widely in men's perfumery there's so many um designer scents that use this this has been a it's been out for a very long time it's a very fresh scent it's hard to describe what precyclamen b smells like it's almost to me it smells almost like a violet leaf it's very kind of green leafy but it doesn't smell leafy it's just a very fresh green take but it's also

26:23 very strong to my nose at least so i have this pre-diluted down to three percent and i'm gonna treat this almost like it's an aldehyde i'm just gonna do one drop because i've noticed when i do a higher concentration of this or more drops of it the overall scent profile of the whole perfume becomes too fresh and that's not what i'm looking for in this particular scent because this scent is again it's supposed to be geared for a sophisticated man in the fall and winter time it's going to be warm slightly gourmand uh definitely spicy and all these things you don't want to overly freshen it up because then it takes on a completely new theme

27:08 and i want to stick to the theme so all my fresher scents like aldehydes and precyclamen be you know your ultrazir i keep it dosed low just to give it an enough freshness to give it some lift and brightness but not enough where it actually takes over the perfume and gives it a whole new themed scent so we've added in everything the last step we're going to do is add in perfumers alcohol and i'm going to start off with we'll give it a an edp kind of concentration range of 15 percent so to do that i got to add in 1.2 grams of perfumers alcohol and that's at 1.1198 i'll just go one

27:55 more just it'll be a little over but that's okay because this is just a trial run i'm probably going to do three or four more trial runs because what i noticed i'm having a hard time deciding on if i want to have the nutmeg be prominent in the top end or not in my previous ones it was it's always poking through the mix just a little bit too much and it was so noticeable that it was kind of overshadowing some of the blood orange so in this one i'm lowering the nutmeg to see what what's gonna happen we'll give it a little swirl here now smelling this straight out of the bottle it smells good

28:40 but you never know what you're going to get because when you smell something from a bottle or a beaker versus when it's actually sprayed on you or if you're using a rollerball it's going to be a completely different scent so i am going to grab a sprayer and we're going to test it on skin so the reason why i made this particular fragrance it's not for uh it's not for a friend or a family member or nobody asked me to make this this is a fragrance that i actually wanted to make for myself because i love love amber fragrances especially like uh dolce gabbana's the one love that fragrance so this is kind of

29:25 like my take on that style or that kind of category scent but in my own direction so we'll give it a couple sprays out there i'll just let it air out for a minute uh another thing while this is airing out usually you want to let your your blend sit for a minimum of 24 hours to to before you make a final judgment call because what you smell now right after you blended everything a lot of the heavier thicker materials don't really have enough time to blend with the other lighter you know synthetics and things like that so what i've always noticed is when i spray this now

30:14 it's to me it smells lovely i can smell everything i probably still might want to lower the nutmeg a little bit because i still smell a lot of nutmeg which it's not a bad thing but i'll make another trial with less nutmeg so i'm on the right track but i do want to let this sit for 24 hours because it will change a little bit in 24 hours i've always noticed that um when you smell this now versus when you wait 24 hours especially in 48 hours for me the 48 hour mark is when you're gonna notice the really big changes uh 24 hours is when everything starts to smell a little bit more complete and blended where things kind of bond together and it just feels like an overall smooth perfume it's not so jagged and things aren't

30:59 jumping out uh 48 hours is when it's like okay this is settled and now you're getting a true representation of what your scent is going to smell like so when you're making a blend uh and you spray it on immediately after you know making the blend itself don't just trash it and be like ah i i didn't do it right something doesn't smell right don't trash it because give it 24 hours you're going to smell it differently especially sometimes in this room here because i have all these materials in front of me i'm smelling all these different things and my nose is kind of clouded with all these different materials in front of me it's trying to smell this it's picking up aromas here there's aromas coming from over there sometimes i'll take this outside and go out on my patio and smell it in the fresh air and you'll get a completely different

31:45 take on it but again wait 24 hours if you can wait 48 hours but definitely wait 24 hours before you get a final verdict on what you should tweak next but right off the bat from everything that i smell here i'm still picking up just a hair too much nutmeg so i'm probably going to lower that just a little bit and see what happens but other than that very very pleased with how this one's coming out so far it is definitely ambery it's definitely warm uh it has a nice sweet gourmandess to it and it's got a nice top end that's kind of not overly citrus like a summer scent but it just kind of brightens everything up just enough to make the overall composition smell clear

32:30 and not so muddy or murky yeah so that's it so that was another trial run of this one which is called autumn amber for now it's probably going to be called something else when it's completely finished um but yeah so that is another perfumery formulation video for you guys to check out so you can get my thought processes on why i chose certain materials how i pre-dilute things where i keep my you know materials in the overall blend and things like that so if you have any questions uh feel free to comment down in the comment section below if you like this style of video comment below tell me you want to see more things like this or maybe if there's another perfume style that you'd like to see me formulate in front of you guys or

33:15 anything just feel free to comment and with that being said until next time [Music] you