0:00 There's a couple of things in this hobby that I have a soft spot for. The first one is Tamilia and the second one is front-wheel drive radiocrolled cars. Now, a lot of people don't like frontwheel drive cars and I can understand why. They handle a little bit different. You can't get the traction down as well. They're not as po well, they were never as popular in the US. I think they're a bit more popular now, but front-wheel drive cars were kind of late to the car party. I mean, I'm talking like many years ago where front-wheel drive in actual cars wasn't a big thing. Whereas now, um, I'd probably say most new cars nowadays, um, a frontwheel drive or four-wheel drive. Anyway, you're not here for a history lesson on actual cars, you want to see some toy cars. And this one, as you can hear, is a kit from Tamilia. It's the
0:45 new B1 Peugeot 306 Maxi. So, the Maxi was in group A Rally. This is my first B01 chassis. Well, that's a lie. I've got the Supra, but this is the first one I'm building. And as you can see here, you can do a few configurations. You can have midship rear motor, rear wheel drive, front motor, frontwheel drive, or front motor, rear wheel drive. And I wonder if you get two of these chassis. I wonder if you could do twin motors. Maybe a future project. Now, the BTO1 since release has had a bit of a hard time from quite a few people about the excess slop um in
1:33 the components. And I agree. I've seen a lot of videos um and they're yeah, quite floppy. Look at that widebody 306 Peugeot. Such a cool looking car. I got two shoutouts for RC Kicks and Poor Boys RC. and to one comment. So, Poor Boys and RC Kicks both made videos on how to improve the BTO1 and stop it like flopping about everywhere. And on Poor Boy's video, in the comment section, someone mentioned um some shims, these Traxxas ones. And I can honestly say that is one of the best purchases I've ever made with a Traxxas name on it because I know where's the build montage. Well, this one it's been kids
2:19 Easter half term. So had 2 weeks um of no school. So I've been stuck at home for quite a bit of [Music] it. We got it. We got it. We So, I took it home. I just sat at home and built it like a lot of you guys build stuff just in your own time in the evenings. And I can tell you something, it is so much more enjoyable building something without any cameras, without any pressure, without thinking, oh, I need to get that shot. I need to talk about that. So, I built it. But anyway, using them Traxxer shims, there is literally zero slop in
3:05 these arms. So, one of the main issues, there's still a little bit there's a little bit of movement in the steering I'm going to work on, and I need to maybe look at shimming up um the axles on the rear. The front's not too bad, but these shims are literally a perfect fit to slide over like the little bits on the um like the lower and the top arms that slide into the chassis. You put one each side. You can see there's a little bit of grease on there and one each side. They're a perfect fit and they remove every single bit of slop um on their arms. I've also added these low friction suspension balls. I've also added bearings to it and I've also added some Yeah. Racing oil shocks which do feel very nice. So, big shout out to Poor Boys and RC Kicks um for their
3:50 videos cuz it really did help when doing this build and I think it's going to make it handle quite a bit better than straight out the box. Now, I'm not trying to defend Tamilia because you shouldn't have from the videos I saw. I didn't obviously experience with this because I built it straight away and with the added bits, but the videos I watched, there was just so much playing it that it shouldn't really come out like that. Um, an easy fix would just to be to add some shims to the kit and put like a little note in there to show you where to fit them. That's an easy fix rather than changing all the molds. But aside from the slop issues, I really like the idea of this chassis that you can do it in different configurations. Not only can you uh put the mower at the rear or midship um front and you can do rear wheel drive, frontwheel drive, um you can also change the wheelbase. So,
4:37 it's got a couple of different it's either two or I think it's two or three wheelbase settings. I like the versatility of it. Now, it might not be the best chassis out there. It may not fit into all the racing and stuff out there, but it's a solid Tamilia chassis that's going to give you body options and well, like I say, options for different drive. You'll see currently it's got the stock silver. So, the kit comes like they all do with a silver cam motor and a Hobbywing ESC. So, you don't get the Tamilia one anymore. You get a hobby I think it's a 1060. They're decent ESC's actually. Doesn't come with a servo. I've put a 35 kilo. It's probably a little bit too much for this, but um it was a nice small one. Going to take that motor out in a minute and we're going to put something a little bit fruity in there. We're going brushless, of course. The Yeah, Racing shocks. I think they're for a TTO2, but
5:22 they're listed to fit this. Um, you can get Tamilia ones. I don't know whether the Tamilia ones are all alloy, though. I like the idea of like an all metal shock. You can see just in there, they're your low friction suspension balls. They stop a little bit of play. And then before I run it, I'm just going to take that steering apart and just see if I can stop some of that cuz I really don't want that amount of play. It's the type of turnbuckles they use. They're just too much play in them really. So, I'm going to have a look at that before we take out for a run just to tighten it up a little bit more. Bearings all round and I think it's going to be a good solid base for a fast tarmac gravel frontwheel drive rally car. And when I say fast, I mean fast. This is the Copperhead 10 from Castle. This one's a
6:07 7,700 KV motor. It will run up to 4S. Now, in this video, we're only running it up to 2S. I want a fast, responsive front-wheel drive, like rally car. And you'll see once we get it running at frontwheel drive, it's quite hard sometimes to get the um get the traction. I've got a little bit of experience with front-wheel drive Tamilers. I think on the unofficial like fastest frontwheel drive Tamilas in the world. I think I'm like third third maybe with my FFO3 at Rossa last year. Was it last year? The year before? 80 odd mph. I've also had the old school FFO1 up to 50 odd maybe 60 mph. Not sure we're going to get them speeds in this
6:53 video, but I have got another video planned that Well, let's get this one out the way first. This whole gear box is held in by just like two screws underneath. So you literally take two screws out and the whole thing just comes out. So easy to get out. These castle motors can sometimes be a bit of a pain especially on like Tamilas or older stuff because where the cables are um fixed on top if the motor like slots into a chassis. So on some like Tamilia stuff and that there's a hole in the side it slots in these get in the way. Whereas on this one because it literally just mounts on top. You got loads of room. It fits nicely in there. I wanted to get a steel pinion. This is the Tamilia um alloy pinion. It's quite soft. It is on plastic, but if you put too much RPMs, too much power through
7:38 it. These aluminium pinions don't last too long. So, that's a stock 22. I will get um a better one for it, but that'll do for now. Because it's fixed in there, we got a nice smooth mesh. So, apart from mounting the ESC and sticking a radio in there, that's pretty much all you got to do to convert these to brushless if you wanted to. So, all plumbed in relatively easy. A little bit messy with the wires cuz it's lots of them on this castle system, but um all in. I was just sorting out the steering, sorting out, making sure the motor was going the right way. I had to go into the castle link um to set it up cuz the motor was going the wrong way. But, um I noticed on the steering before I set the dual rate, the amount that it turns, it was going way too far. And I could see the chassis moving. Look how much flex there is. It's going to I don't know how
8:25 much it's going to flex when it's actually on the floor. I mean, I'm doing it by hand like that, but still a bit more flex than I've seen in other Tamilia chassis. I love that wine that these castle motors make. So, nice smooth sensored motor. That's about a quarter thr. I think we need to glue our [Applause] tires. It does say in the manual to glue them. We'll put some foams in as They don't come with foams, but I'm going to put some foams in and we're going to glue them. So, all that's left to do then is the body and oh, I was going to look at the steering as well, wasn't I? So, give the steering a little tweak, get some of that play out, and then yeah, paint the body in circle. I think that's about as
9:12 much steering as I can get out of it. We get a jump in. I mean, it is a rally car, isn't it? [Music] This is definitely the only bit of painting a body that is worth recording. Peeling off the outer film. This is where we see if that first layer of PS16 metallic blue has given it that pop that I want. I think it has. Oh yeah. Look at that.
10:05 Beautiful. I think that metallic blue on its own might have been a little bit too much. It's got some nice sparkle, but it's not too crazy. That's going to look so good with the sun on it. My favorite job. Individually cutting out all the stickers. How nice does that look? It looks so good. Probably more appealing to us over here across the pond in the UK or us Europeans. I think it's come out so good. I'm glad I put that metallic like layer on. Just can't really see it very well, but it does pop in the light. So, time to go and play. We're going to go and see how fast it is. I've not built this thing for speed, even though it's got a crazy motor in it. This video, I've not built it to go crazy fast. So, although I'll probably whack the throttle at 100% to see how
10:51 fast it is. And when I'm running it, I'm probably going to just turn it down a little bit cuz I think even on 2S, it's going to be a little bit too powerful. A really nice build. Let's just hope it drives after what I've seen of other ones. But frontwheel drive, front motor. I've not seen many or any videos actually in that configuration. And all I've done there's still there's still a little bit of play in the steering, but I just put a fixed link between the servo and like the steering linkage. That's where I found most of the play. So, it's just screwed in rather than clipped onto like the little ball connectors. Right. Fresh on the tarmac. I've not done anything, not tried it, not adjusted anything. I want you to share share my uh experience with me. First blip of the throttle just to see if we can get it go straight. I mean,
11:37 it's going pretty straight already. I don't think I need to adjust anything. I thought I might have to adjust the trim, but going pretty straight. Oh, maybe a little bit that way. There we go. Should we see how fast it is? I love frontwheel drives. They just can't get any grip. Just checking that the throttle is on 100. I thought I might have to turn it down on 2S, but I reckon we should be all right. I'm just going to have to turn the dual rate down a bit. What the dual rate does is it reduces the amount of steering. As you'll see now as I turn it down, you see the steering going like that. Just means when you're running a bit fast, when you correct it, it doesn't go crazy. I reckon this is good for I want to say 30. Let's
12:25 go. Come on. Oh, go. Full throttle. Full throttle. Full throttle. Ah! Oh, no. No, no, no, no, no. We don't want to be rolling it. Oh, I scuffed my mirror. Oh, no. I didn't want to roll it. It looks so good. I was com Uhoh. Oh, what have we done? No, come on. It's not what I'd planned to do today. Oh, we're good. We just popped. It's all right. It's fine. We just popped a link. For what? 43. Didn't look like 43.
13:13 Have to verify that again. Once you get full throttle, the front just sort of digs in. Takes a little bit of time. There you go. Oh, not again. For sake. Oh, my GPS has gone into this long grass. No. No. Are we in range? We're in range. Well, that was 47. Definitely fast. Well, I can't find my GPS. I think that runs cost me 60 70. I need to the next one I get, I need to get a new one and I need to put bright
13:59 orange tape around it or I need to put it inside the body like I usually do. What an idiot. Yes, 40 mph is rapid on 2S. So, I think the steering may need a bit of a tweak. could probably do with adjusting the tow in at the rear as well because one of them now the one that came off looks like it's towing in a bit more than it was before. But I don't think this handle's too bad. Just I mean you're not going to be doing 45 mph in a straight line, are you? Let's go find somewhere to run it. I'm going to go and tweak that rear. Going
14:46 to touch up my uh paint damage and I think we'll go find somewhere just to give it a little burn round. I don't really want to roll it anymore and destroy it because it looks so nice. The sparkle on the body looks beautiful. I think the technique to going fast in a straight line is just pin the throttle. Look from stand still. Look, pin the throttle. Go. There it is. I thought I thought I might as well dial it in a little bit here before I take it back. and just had a fiddle with the rear toe, adjusted the steering a little bit, and I think we're pretty much there. There's definitely a bit of flex on that front end, but at a
15:32 reasonable speed, it's quite easy to sort of keep it going straight or just to sort of direct it as well. Look, look, just slow inputs. That's me doing that with the steering on purpose just to show you. You can look full throttle. Just pin the throttle. It's quicker without a body on it. Or it's easier to drive without a body on it. H don't usually do this, but I'm determined to get a clean run without speed. I don't like taking speeds when things crash. Clean. Super clean run. Bit of throttle pulsing just to
16:19 keep it going. There we go. And straight back. Look, definitely the body affecting it when I was running it just a minute ago. Bit of arrow acting on it. Right, let's confirm that speed. Oh, 51 50 mph on two cell. That's going to be mad on a three cell or a four cell cuz that's what that ESC will take. Here we go then on a track. Right, I've dialed the um dialed the throttle down to 50, maybe just under 50%. Steering jewel rate tweaked. I've
17:05 also had a little I don't know if it's a temporary fix or a permanent fix to the steering um plate. I've put some Tamilia AW grease on the um the balls. Greased my balls and um it's tightened it up. So, I'm just going to run some laps. And I mean, as you can see, it's quite hard to see all the way out there, isn't it? But it's pretty dialed. Needs a bit more speed down that straight, but look, frontwheel drive for the win. I think I could probably do with softening the suspension. It's a little bit bouncy, but look, look at it. It's dialed. Yeah, suspension needs softening. That might help with a bit of grip actually getting that suspension softened.
17:51 But wa, I can't see all the way up there. This is a nice track. Brockstone Model Car Club. It's in Nottingham Shear. A few people have asked me before. Um, it's actually on a public park, so you have access to it. Oh, I can't I need to be stood up there, but you can't get up there during the week. Anyway, I'm just going to throw some laps in. I might get bit more speed on it. Turn that um throttle up a little bit and just Yeah, just throw some laps down.
18:57 I've just put a ton laps in on this. I got the motor turned down. So, I've still got loads of battery left. Anyway, frontwheel drive, front motor, the B01, I think, is actually all right with the tweaks I've done. I'm going to do an unedited couple of laps or lap now for you. I'm going to show you how dialed this is. So, no editing. We're just going eye in now. Obviously, it still needs a little bit of tuning. Suspension could do with softening up. maybe tweak the steering or the geometry a little bit, but look, this is definitely not as bad as some people say. Obviously, rear wheel drive configuration is going to be different, and I'd say you probably need to tweak the front um tie rods and stuff
19:43 to get the front wheels to remove that play if you're doing a rear wheel drive setup. But look, that's two laps. Two laps in, nice and dialed. That's full frog cuz I got it turned right down. But any more than that and it's just going to be uncontrollable anyway for this track. But look how smooth it is. Frontwheel drive. E, I've had a lot of fun. And I think I'm got and I got another battery, so I might just stay here for a bit. Weather's nice. Sun's out. Could do have a coffee, though. Oh man. Oh, a little lift to the inside wheel
20:30 then. Come on. This motor is like working at probably 10% of its potential and it's taking this thing around this track no problem at all. How many laps is that now? Is that four that we've done? Four clean laps. Obviously, I'm not getting all the apexes and all the, you know, the right lines, but I'd say I'd say it's a relatively successful build for this. Again, thanks to Poor Boys RC and RC Kicks for the little tips on uh dialing it in. Uh, and that little AW grease, that little thick, it's anti-wear grease from Tamilia. Just on the ball ends, that's tightened this up very well.
21:18 Well, I'm going to keep running this battery down. I think I've been here about half hour or 40 minutes already. Oh, just tuck in on that corner there. No, I lost my mirror. Anyway, that was enough clean laps, wasn't it? Okay. Yes. If I built this completely stock out the box, use the friction dampers, the plastic bushings, if I didn't do anything with the steering, if I didn't put a brushless motor in it, it wouldn't have been as good. But let's be realistic. Most of you watching, I know my audience, most of you watching that are into Tamilers,
22:03 you either build them, put them on the shelf, or you build them, you upgrade them, you modify them, you tweak them, and you have fun with them. But again, I'm not defending Tamilia. This shouldn't come out the box. The amount of play it's got in it. It should have been done better. But as you've seen in this video, I've not done anything crazy on this. That is all there is in the steering. There's no forward or backwards play on them arms. Same on the front. I could probably Hang on. Let's choose something. But I tell you what, let's choose my finely tuned race buggy. Steering play. Forward and backwards play there. And play on the back end as well. Excess slop out the box. Yes. Is it easy to fix? Yes. Does it run really nicely? Yes. I did destroy
22:49 my body though. I don't know how many crashes I got on camera, but when I was just getting me eye in on the track, I did have a few offs. That was the B1 Peugeot 306 Maxi from Tamilia. I like it. Enjoyed the build. I've got some more to come with this, so you'll just have to stay tuned. [Music]
