0:00 Hello, friends. Welcome back. Today we are diving into the Fujifilm X-T5 and are talking about the best settings for video. how I set up this camera to work for me. This is very similar to other Fujifilm cameras. I've already made a video like this for the X-H2S, but I wanted to go ahead and make one on the X-T5 as I feel like there's not a ton of content here on YouTube showing you how to use this exact camera in a video first context. So I just wanted to take some time today, walk you guys through all the menus, my custom buttons, how I have set up this camera to work for me. I'm primarily using this as my B cam alongside my X-H2S in my video production work. So I hope that you would find some value today and we will dive into the menus. Okay, so here we are in the menus. We're gonna start here and then move on to some other more specific categories later on, but I'm just gonna do a
0:47 broad sweep through the menu. So starting off, here's your movie settings. We're going to click on this and you'll see right away, there are gonna be some changes and I'll talk through them, but right here, 4K 16 by nine, I am not shooting in the HQ mode as it crops in and I'm not really needing anything more than the standard 4K. Same thing with 6K. I'm primarily gonna be using this camera 16 by nine, 4K, and then at 23.98 frames per second. If you're wanting to shoot slow motion, go ahead and use 59.94. But for me, doing a lot of interview work, 23.98. And then moving on to right here, we are going to dual record. So the slots one and two, that's this setting here. If you wanted to shoot on a card one and then on a card two, that's that setting here. But for me, dual recording always. I'm using H.265 Longop 422
1:37 all the way. I love this codec and specifically 200 megabits per second is going to be for my professional work. If I was shooting something like a YouTube video or maybe something for social media, I would bump that down to 100 as the quality difference to my eye is negligible, but for all my professional work, 200 megabytes per second, I don't really ever bother bumping it up to the 360. 200 is plenty of fine for my use cases. And then we're gonna talk about color later on, but my favorite profile is a classic Chrome, but we will get to that later on. When you get on a movie mode, this is the same thing. It's just redundant. So skip over that. High-speed record, I have set to off. You would use this if you were wanting to record very slow-mo footage, like 120 frames or above. I really don't ever use that that often. That is off. Self-timer set to
2:25 off, media record settings, redundant, one and two, as we said before. HDMI output setting, these are important. And so my info display is currently on is because I'm running my menus through this monitor and then to my camera to record the screen. So that's why I have this on. In a typical context, I will have the info display off so that there is a clean feed being sent to the monitor. So typically that'd be off. And these two don't really matter. I think those are just default for now. Fixed movie crop is set to off. If you did wanna use this, it will add a 1.25% crop. If you're wanting to punch in, I don't find myself using that very often as I like to do my zooming in in post. When it comes to F-Log, we're going to get to color later on, but this is where you would change that. If I'm not in classic Chrome, I am going to be in F-Log 2. We will talk about that later on. Data level,
3:12 we are going to keep it set to full range because we are not doing anything with ProRes in this camera. Just keep it to full range and you'll be set. When it comes to the meter here, I like center weighted as it kind of takes into account what's in the center of your frame when giving you the reading on your meter. Find that the most helpful. Flickle the shutter speed, usually just keep this off. IBIS is where you would change that. I usually keep my IBIS on. I don't do a lot of the digital stabilization, so I'll just keep my IBIS set to on. Don't really ever use the boost mode. When it comes to zebras, this is gonna get into the color conversation later on, but for now, I have them on. and I have them set to 100. For movie optimized control, I have this set to off. I do not like using the touchscreen to control recording in any way. Recording frame indicator. If you guys do have this on, you will
4:02 wanna turn this on. This adds a little red box when you are recording. It is super nice and would highly recommend you guys doing that on your frame. When it comes to the tally lights, I keep both of these on so I know if I'm filming myself or behind the camera, know when the camera is recording we're going to dive into custom settings later on so let's just wait on that when it comes to image quality a lot of this we're going to talk about in the color section later on so for now we're going to skip over it white balance is going to change but a lot of times i am just using the daylight preset dynamic range i personally like to have set at 100 when i'm shooting rec 709 we're going to get into all that later on so let's skip over this and move on to autofocus When it comes to the focus area, I just
4:48 have the box set up. You guys will see that's just the default size. You can make it smaller or larger, but the default size has been great for me. When you are using an auto-focus lens, you'll see this second setting here, auto-focus mode. This is probably the most important auto-focus setting that people often get wrong and then complain about Fujifilm's auto-focus. Do not have it set to multi-mode. You want it set to area mode. And what this means is that the box here on the back screen When that is moved around, I'm just touching the screen. That will show your camera where to pull focus from. Just wanted to clarify that if you guys are having autofocus issues. When it comes to the custom settings, this is gonna completely depend on your lens as they all react differently. I have been trying out the Tamron 17-70 and have liked just keeping both of them at zero, but play around because
5:36 your, Autofocus settings will change with your Fujifilm camera and you will need to be recording to note those changes. So if you're just previewing it, you might not see any difference, but if you do change these settings and your lens is compatible, you will see a difference in the autofocus performance. Wrap focus point I keep to enable, autofocus illuminator off, AF plus MF off, manual focus assist. I do like using the meter rather than peaking. And so I will show you guys really quickly how this works, but we have our camera currently set to manual focus and you will see the meter right here. And as we bring this, this is just my diffusion into focus, you'll see it go green. So that means we are in focus. If we went too far, you will see that we can really easily nail our focus. And this is based on where the box is. So if we moved this around, that
6:25 is going to be where the camera is searching for focus. So I think you need an auto-focus compatible lens. for this to work, so it will not work with manual focus lenses, but I have been enjoying that. So you will find that under the focus meter setting right there. Focus check, I just keep to off. AFS, pixel, this is off. Touchscreen mode, I like area. That is setting my auto focus area with that little button there. And focus check lock is set to off. When it comes to audio, this is going to change, but in general, I just like keeping them set to auto. Mic jack setting is gonna be set to mic level. I like having the limiter on, but the wind filter and the low cut filter off as I like to do my EQ later on. We're not gonna mess with headphone volume or the XLR mic adapter setting. Timecode display is off. I'm not running timecode
7:14 really ever into this camera. You might need to look up a separate video if you're interested in using timecode. When it comes to the setup menu, there's not a ton we're gonna change here, but user settings, we are just gonna keep those as is. Sound setup, I don't think I really touched anything in this menu. When it comes to screen setup, you guys can see here all my settings if you're curious on copying these. When it comes to display custom settings, this is all what I like to have enabled. It is pretty much everything, but I turn off touchscreen mode and framing outline. These distance indicators I do not like to have on, so feel free to copy those settings. I don't do anything with the large indicators. Location info is on. And then I don't think I touched either of these settings
8:02 here. So that's our screen. When it comes to button and dial, let's go down here to function. So here's, we're going to talk about our function buttons. Function one, I have set to face detection. Function two here on the front, I have zebras on and off. Function three, I have our internal mic level adjustment. Here, I'm going to have the electronic level. I have the white balance and then function button six. I have the F-Log view assist. You guys can totally customize these as to what you will be pulling for, but I go ahead and turn these touch functions all off. And then you guys will see here, I have the AEL button actually used as an auto-focus lock button. We'll get to how to fully set that up later on. And then I have the AEL button. AF on button actually set
8:48 to auto white balance lock. And so this is super helpful if you're wanting to shoot on auto white balance, but lock it off. Would highly recommend you guys doing that. Rear dial, I love focus check. You can punch in when you're using manual focus to check your focus. And Q, I keep set to the quick menu. When it comes to the rest of this page, my command dial settings are set as the following. So when I'm using a lens that does not have the aperture ring, I have F-stop and ISO on the front dial. So if you guys see here, I can click this in and adjust my aperture and then click it again. And it's usually set to ISO. So that's how I have that set up. The other one is just set to shutter speed. Shutter speed operation is on by default.
9:34 Command dial direction. I think that's normal, but feel free to customize that. When it comes to shoot without lens, I have this on if I'm using a manual lens without electronic connections. like having that on. This one, shoot without card, set to off. I haven't played around much with the lens, zoom, and focus settings, so I would just leave all of that as is. When it comes to these two settings at the bottom, you are gonna wanna change these to the switch. So both of them are set. This is for our autofocus lock and auto white balance lock. So if we hit the AEL button, you will see the autofocus lock now pops up. So I like to use this if I'm wanting to lock focus. It is a switch, so I press it again, it will turn off. And then similar with auto white balance, you guys will see that indicator pop up in the top right. And then if I'm wanting it to regather what the auto white balance is, simply click it
10:21 again and then lock it. So those are super helpful. I use those quite often. The last two settings for button and dial are gonna be these aperture settings. I have these set to command and manual. This gives you full manual control of the camera. So if you're having issues with maybe an auto aperture setting, make sure those are set appropriately. We already touched on power management, but again, here's that page, auto power off temp set to high, and then save data set up. I don't really change a ton here, but I do change my file name to be XT5 so that when I pull these files into my computer, I know that they are from the XT5 and not the XH2S. You can give it whatever name you would like, but this is where you do that. And then this is where you would name your photos if you're wanting that to change as well. Okay, so now we're gonna
11:08 move on to specific color settings, Classic Chrome versus F-Log2. So if you're filming in Classic Chrome, which is a Rec. 709 profile that already has some contrast and saturation, this is where you will select that. I'm shooting in this quite often. We're gonna go ahead and change this back to daylight as I like to lock it. But I like Dynamic Range 100. People are mixed on this one when I put out my last video, but I like to keep it at 100, keeps it simple for me. The tone curve, I move my highlights down to negative two, as well as the shadows down to negative two to preserve a little bit more information. Color, I've been liking negative two. Sharpness, negative four, turning that completely off in camera. High ISO noise reduction, I've played around with different values. I think I like just leaving it set at zero. And then,
11:57 interframe noise reduction, always off. Peripheral light correction, off. I don't want the camera trying to correct lens flares or anything like that. When you're shooting in classic Chrome, the last thing you need to note is your zebra settings. And so for classic Chrome, I love keeping my zebra set to 100. This will show me when things are clipping. So you'll see the top of the screen here is actually clipping as I bring my ISO up and that is controlled here with our zebras. When it comes to F-Log2, this is gonna be the profile that I'm using for the majority of my professional work where I'm wanting to maximize dynamic range. You guys will see that here on page one. This is where you will toggle either F log one, I prefer F log two. And when you turn that on, you will see when we go over to the IQ settings page, it now darkens the tone curve. You can't
12:46 adjust the color. So I still like sharpness at negative four and high ISO noise reduction set to zero. And again, same settings there. When you are shooting in F log two, you are gonna wanna change those zebras to 85%. You guys will see here, have them set to 85% to show you when your image is clipping. So as we bump up our ISO, you guys will see that that is clipping and is super handy for nailing your exposure. So changing all those settings between classic Chrome and F-Log2 can get quite tedious. So now we're gonna move on on how to set up the custom modes so that you don't have to tweak that stuff when you are switching profiles. It's just, one setting change rather than multiple so we are going to go back in here to the menus and so as we navigate to
13:33 page three this is where you're going to get to this select custom setting edit save custom setting menu and so what i would encourage you to do is set all your settings as i suggested in this video for c1 set that up on your camera, and then you're actually going to copy and paste that to the rest of the custom modes so that you're only tweaking a few settings each time and not having to manually set all those settings. So utilize the copy paste. So once you've set up your C1, what I imagine C1 to be, you guys will see here, I have it named Classic Chrome 24 frames per second. So that's how I would set that up. I have all my settings with that. And when you come to edit and save, This is where you can give it a custom name. So I did CC 24. And then this is where you can hit copy and
14:24 it gives you the option to copy and paste to the other seven custom modes. So I would encourage you set up your first one, give it a name, go ahead and copy and paste that to all the rest of the custom modes so that then you are not having to change the settings one by one. And so I'm not going to run through individually setting up each one of those pages, but make use of the copy paste. How I think through this is C1 is a classic Chrome 24 frames per second. C2 is classic Chrome 60 frames per second. So I'm wanting to film a classic Chrome, but I want slow-mo. The main thing I'm changing there again, frame rate C3 is going to be F log two. So I'm going to make sure and change that zebra setting and have this set to 24 frames per second. C4 is going to be F-Log 60 frames per second. So again,
15:10 same things as C3, but then we are going to copy and paste those over and change it to 60 frames per second for slow-mo. And then finally, I have Classic Chrome 6K, F-Log 2 6K in case I am wanting to shoot in 6K, I can quickly change to that. And then C7, I just have sets of fun. So if I'm wanting to try something out and I don't want to mess with one of these profiles, I'll just go to C7 and I kind of know that that could be anything and everything, but that is just a little fun custom mode that I might need. When it comes to switching between your different custom modes, simply go to your quick menu. And if C1 is not there by default, you might see M, but from here you'll see C1 and you can use the back dial to toggle through all your different custom modes. Last, we're going to dive into the my menu and quick menu. So here's a quick look at my my menu. I'm
15:57 still kind of tweaking this. I haven't actually been using this menu screen as often, but you guys will see what I chose to add here. You can add whatever you want, add additional pages. You're just going to come here to user settings. And then you want to go to the video, my menu setting, and that's where you can do add items. So you can scroll through any of the menus and choose what you want to add, and then you can rank them. So you can rearrange the order need be or remove. And so again, I will show you guys what I have on mine. I haven't been using it super often, but movie settings, that dual record feature, HDMI output, because I'm switching that quite often, F-Log2, if I'm wanting to just make sure I'm in the correct mode, Zebras and my Tally lights for YouTube videos, just some stuff you might want to access quickly. If you find
16:46 yourself constantly thumbing through the menus to select it, you guys might want to add it here to your My Menu. When it comes to setting up your Quick Menu, you're just going to navigate here to the button dial settings, and then there's the photo and video mode, so make sure you are in the Video mode, and then from here you can choose how many slots. I have preferred eight, but if you go ahead and click into this, you will see this is where you can change what all of these are. So I like to have white balance close by. You can simply click on each one and change it. So white balance, I then have my resolution right here. So really easy to just take note of that. Again, bit rate, if I'm wanting to change, maybe 100 megabytes per second for a YouTube video versus 200 for a client project. quickly accessible there, mic level adjustment, IBIS.
17:34 manual focus assist if I'm wanting to change maybe the focus peak gain quite quickly. And then I just have my frame right here. A lot of this is just nice for reference. When you hit the quick menu here, I kind of like just being able to see this stuff more than I ever actually change it, but you can really simply just change this with the back dial. So if I'm wanting to make a quick change or I'm not wanting to switch custom modes necessarily, but change an individual setting, you guys can do that here. Thank you guys so much for watching. I hope that you found this video helpful. And while it might be long, I hope it was comprehensive and gave you everything you need to know to set up this camera to get the most out of it for video. If you guys have any questions or I glossed over anything or missed anything, please let me know down below as I would love to help out. And I will catch you guys
18:20 in the next one. Peace.
